Posted by: crazyolivier | June 26, 2009

Lago Titicaca!

Hola my favourite readers! Last stop in Bolivia, after La Paz and Tiwanacu, it was time for me to explore a bit of the exciting Lago Titicaca… which sets the border between with Peru!


Titicaca Lake
Lake from CopacabanaAt an average altitude of 3812m above see level, this is the highest commercially navigable lake of the world! It is also the largest lake of South America. The western part of the lake is in Peru, Puno being the main city. The eastern part is in Bolivia, Copacabana being the main city. I decided to explore a bit of both sides, starting with the Bolivian side! During my stay around the
lake, we got different explanations about the origin of the name Titicaca. It might come from Quechua and Aymara languages, meaning « Puma Rock » due to the shape of the lake (I did try hard to see a puma there… could’nt do it!). Andean people tend to apreciate seeing animals in everything with an Inca or other pre-andean civilization :) .


Copacabana
View from CopacapanaSo, from La Paz, I took a new 3 hour bus ride. How surprised am I, when I enter the bus, to see Chris seated there! Chris, from Canada, took Spanish lessons in Buenos Aires together with me, 2 months earlier! The world is really small sometimes… Once in Copacabana, Wait. Copacabana… like the beach in Rio de Janeiro? Like the famous song by Barry Manilow?? Yeah… but no! That’s the other ay around people! The name of the beach in Brasil actually comes from the 19th century when they built there a church named after the virgin of the Bolivian Copacabana. So, back to my story… Once in that city, it was time to look for a hostel. After going around the 2 main streets, I quickly see that it would be much cheaper to take a room along with someone else. So when I bump into Gabriel, a porteno from Buenos Aires… I just ask « hey, wanna stay with me? » (no indecent proposal to be misunderstood in these words, ok guys?!?!?) and 5 minutes later we become friends for the next few days :) We then go to have dinner with Chris and his frined Maria and enjoy our first evening there. The next day we just enjoy walking around the tiny Copacabana and taking pictures from the lake shore.


Isla del Sol
Isla del Sol RuinsNext day… we go on Isla del Sol (
Island of the Sun), the main island on the Bolivian side, and one of the largest one of the lake. On the boat to the island, I meet up again with Nathalie (Germany) and Yael (USA) that I already met several time earlier in my trip! And I will meet these 2 cool girls even other time later on in Peru!! So we spend the whole day together, along with Gabriel my new favourite Argentinian friend! In the northern part of the island we walk for a long time, with some gorgeous views over the lake as the walk takes us up closer to the sky! Because that island is a very rocky and hilly island, we are tired by the walk!! At the top of Isla del Sol, there are over 180 ruins. Most of them date from the Inca period. The 4 of us, southern part of Isla del SolThe ruins are not that spectacular, but the walk with that incredible view is really worth it!!
In the southern part of the island, exhausted by the morning hike, we decide to hang out there and enjoy the view and the sun while laying down on the grass. And there, on the island, I meet up again with Laia from Barcelona, that I keep on meeting in random places :) I will also meet her again later on in my trip!!!



Direction Peru!
El Paquito Tour on Titicaca LakeBack to Copacabana, I take a bus to Puno, the main city on the Peruano side of the lake (see map above). Border without any particular issue. As often, we need to get out of the bus with all our stuff, pass the custom, and get back in the bus. In Puno, I go to a nice hostel -Inka’s Rest- recommended by Sam, an English girl I met up in the bus from Copacabana. We meet there in the hostel with Zhan, another British, and decide to go together the next day on a tour on the islands around Puno.

From Puno lakeside, we leave for a 2day tour on the islands around: Uros, Amantani, and Taquile.


Islas Uros
Girls UrosTiticaca lake has many people living on the Uros, a group of more than 40 floating islands, built with an aquatic plant, the totora. The original purpose of creating these islands was defensive, so that the people could easily be moved in case of any threat. From Puno, our first stop was on such an island, where we discover how the people live and eat, and we were actually offered to eat some of their plant that kids eat just like ice-cream! The little kids were dressed up in typical clothes and were just sooooo cute. :) Between two floating islands, we took an original small boat and it was a great experience on the Titicaca lake.


Amantani
AmantaniNext to the floating islands, we went to the Isla Amantani. People there speak mostly Quechua. About 800 families live in 6 different villages around this beautiful hilly island. The Pachamama -
Mother Earth- is the main mountain peak, with ancient ruins on top, offering a unique view over the lake. The island is very basic, with very little energy, no car, no Internet, … everything is sooo traditional there and aThe men in the house! lot of families use candles and fire in general as the main source of energy! Some families on Amantani open their homes to tourists for overnight stays, such as we did, and cook meals for us! Eudocia and Angel hosted the 3 of us for a great moment of sharing and emotion with them. After a nice hike to the Pachamama with all our group, we shared a lovely dinner with our hosts. Then, it was time to attend the nightly traditional party where we got offered to dress up in traditional clothes and dance to the sound of a local music band. Fun… and traditional!


Taquile
Group Gate TaquileTaquile is another hilly island were we went the following morning, very early. Taquile was used as a prison during the Spanish colony and into the 20
th century. Since 1970, it belongs to the local people, who live there since, to reach a current population of roughly 3000 people. We walked under the rain to the highest part of the island, where we can also find some pre-Inca ruins, such as a beautiful gate where we took dozens of pictures!! The hillsides are mostly used as agricultural terraces, and it made the way back to our boat quite beautiful too. After 2 incredible days on the islands and the lake, it was time to come back on the land, in Puno… with, once again, our head full of unique clichés!


Once in Puno, it was time to enjoy a relaxing evening with hot shower, good pizza, Internet, and DVD night in our hostel! The next morning, once again, it was time to leave early… We decided with Sam and Zhan to take a longer bus to Cusco that would stop in different places with some historical explanations on the way… Cusco and Machu Picchu… watch out, El Paquito is coming!!!

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